Run for the exit

As long-promised, this website is about to self destruct and become something else. In the meantime, as well as the Brandish posts (www.brandish.tv) check out my Twitter tweet ..

http://twitter.com/colinchapman

A Perfect Spring Image

The Sartorialist's visits to Italy aren't always something to write home about: sometimes a little too formal, too boardroom and a long way from what we'd really think of as streetwear.

But this image of Luca Rubinacci (of the tailoring clan) is just perfect for spring. Whether or not some of the details Mr Rubinacci is wearing are a direct response to the recent shows chez Milan or a happy accident, he's got his finger on the button of S/S 09. Firstly the hat: part Madchester, part Derek Jarman's Garden (the latter an inspiration for Christopher Bailey's SS Burberry collection), it sets a quirky theme. Then there's that check.. not quite the Haymarket check that's controversially resurfaced but just off: is this a trend in itself?! The striped tie stacks up the contrasts. Overall it's the jewel-bright colours that attract the eye: purple, royal blue, gold, there's something very refreshing after a winter of dark serge coats and black everything.

Lesson? Colour is fun but needs expert handling unless you want to look like a Play School presenter.

Long time no see, huh?
I'm mostly blogging at Brandish.tv these days .. and like I do have a life away from the keyboard. But 2009 will see sharpenedlead in a new format that allows me to be more scandalous, libellous and opinionated than I should be.

Meanwhile if you're not already reading it then get hold of Buck magazine. Better still subscribe to it. So far they've covered London, New York and Paris. Next issue is Tokyo. It sometimes feels like these guys have a live connection to my thoughts. All the stuff I care about: fashion, good design, travel, eating out, cocktails. And guess where me and the spouse have been talking about visiting? Tokey-fucking-oh. Oh yes, Buck is good. And no, I'm not writing for them .. yet.

Wow! I love this image ..
I'm not a huge fan of Face Hunter, all those Scandinavians and Icelandics looking cutesie and twee in their bright colours .. who cares?? But then THIS. Of course, the boy is drop dead and superfit but I love the overall silhouette of his outfit. A look I'm also wearing this A/W (though in a tastefully toned down version in sight of my age). The slim black jeans, the loose t-shirt creating contrast and the military-esque boots. Even the chunky watch worn with a certain nonchalance. Perfect!

A look that should seem more extreme than it does. Bravo, young man!

You’re so Zeitgeist, November– probably the last of 2008

The sense of doom has lifted due to some serious fashion purchases, Aeroplane's music and the nearness of my honeymoon in Mexico.












1. Aeroplane. I aready posted on their fantastic mix of The Shortwave Set but their mix of Das Pop’s Fool for Love is so good it’s stupid. Meanwhile, for a full-length DJ mix by the Belgian dons click here.

2. Red cardigans. I blew the budget on the Paul & Joe cashmere number, but there are likely contenders all over town.

3. Peacoats. Some might say a perennial but I’ve never seen as many on the street and in such flattering cuts. Mine’s Dries Van Noten at Browns. I fell for the military styling (and the ‘personal shopper’ attention, hello James).

4. Slim black jeans. Again, have become a staple but looking very now. They provide the perfect canvas for statement boots, chunky knitwear or that gothique t-shirt from BBlessing. The issue is finding the perfect pair. I’d say Acne Jeans win out.

5. Gothique t-shirts from BBlessing and Oak, ha ha! My boyf came home from a (rare) day of shopping recently bemoaning the “doom and gloom and all things black” on the high-street. BBlessing did it first and best.

6. Tess of the D’Urbevilles. I know it’s over but it survives on my Virgin hard drive and I still feel a bit haunted. Bravo BBC for filling the Sunday night ‘bonnet’ spot with something so gutsy and affecting. And Eddie Redmayne looked like he’d stepped out of an Autumn fashion shoot!

7. Silver beards. OK so I’m biased but there does seem to be a huge amount of good looking beards around town right now with that ‘touch of argent’. Mr Clooney still leads the pack, natch.



8. Scarves. One accessory-category always vies for attention in menswear. In recent years we’ve had belts, bags of all kinds, spectacle frames and braces. With scarves, there’s no current definitive style though the classic bandana worn as a necktie and the big, ragged-edged ethnic wrap are contenders.

9. Military boots. I’ve gone for the NDC-made floppy, distressed suede Gianni boots from the lovely Laundry Room but again, loads out there. All Saints have more high-street friendly options .. or wait for the inevitable sales.

10. Hats with character. OK, lemme just say . . I can’t wear hats. After 40 years, the only style I’ve ever found that suits me is the Berlin-esque/Casey Jones black cotton cap but hats are everywhere and for those that suit em: hurrah. Bowlers, pork pies and trapper hats are all having a moment.

Nearly 40!













Jesus holy fucking Christ. How did that happen?? There's nothing good about being this age despite what anyone tells you. It's always better to have the body of a hot 23 year old, especially when it's attached.

Having said that, The Sartorialist as ever, provides solace for the down of heart and sagged of face. Two recent posts definitely showed that men of a certain age can look pretty amazing.

























In other news, we partied hard in Berlin with our friend from Geneva. Attended LavBox .. which was dull as fuck apart from the afterparties. And then got very muddy at Bestival.

Where I developed a new obsession: Kim Ann Foxman from Hercules & Love Affair, who were just astoundingly good at said wet-stival. Kim Ann dances like me. Wears amazing clothes and is my new icon. Why follow the rules of male fashionistes when there's a sexy, amazing, boyish lesbian to aspire to?


















Other highlights right now: Damian Lazarus is doing lots of great things musically. Aeroplane delivered my favourite RA mix of the year and made me aware of The Shortwave Set's track, 'Now 'til 69'. Best remixed by Aeroplane themselves, it's my track of the year.













I might update this thing again, I may not. Much like life at 40, I'd prefer to start the whole thing over with a new body and fresh face ..

Summer Succour

OK. I've been well and truly reminded, this thing is way overdue [Jeez, even the Byf read the last entry the other day ... surely a sign of tardiness]. But, expect some big changes in this lil ol blog . Yes, this blog is due to self destruct someday soon to be replaced by something .. different.













New York, New York
To be frank, I was too depressed by returning from NYC to want to write this thing. It's my favourite city, ever. London just doesn't compare - neither does Paris/Berlin/Buenos Aires/Shanghai/Hong Kong/Rio ... get the picture?

OK, so there are new fashions walking up the Hackney Road every day and all that History. Jesus, all that fucking history. It hangs round the neck of this city like an albatross in a fucking Madness commemorative t-shirt. Bored, folks.

Still, in the spirit of the Blitz, here are 5 things I begrudgingly quite like about London right now:

1. Cha Cha Moon.
Fabulous name - is Alan Yau a covert John Waters fan?? Great food and an international crowd (30% Chinese, lots of Eurasian trustfund kids, very Hong Kong vibe). And a very un-London £3.50 a pop. But no cha-cha heels.

2. Pleated chinos at Uniqlo. Actually pleated trousers full stop. As prescribed by Charlie Porter himself. We've been in thrall of the flatfront trouser for 20 years .. and you know what? Fashion caught up with us and walked right on by.

3. Modular Records. Cute Aussie boys, inexplicably based in London paying over the odds for like, everything. Happy shiny music for fey boys like you and my favourite band: Cut Copy.

4. Daunt Books.

5. Independent cinemas: Barbican, Curzon Soho, even the Stasi-like Rich Mix.

And 5 fantastic things about New York City:

1. Williamsburg. OK so I got there 10 years too late and there are now towerblocks on the waterfront for sale in The Guardian but those guys can work a look. There will be fucking blood, and those hipsters grow a great beard.

2. Guy shopping. Proper boutiques for guys, not a reluctant add-on to the girls store out front. BBlessing makes me swoon.

3. Secretism. The speakeasy never really disappeared in NY. From Death & Company to PDT (Please Don't Tell) heaven lives behind an unmarked door.

4. Gotham City. Dark as hell. I love the fact that New York's aesthetic relishes darkness so much.

5. The Manhattan skyline. Still makes my chin wobble on first sighting and on the way back to the airport.

I can't stick to 5, it's so good.

6.The Met. Having bitched about London history, I just love the OTT American-ness of this place. Grecian temple? Germanic Mediaeval knights chamber? ... just ship the fucking stuff right over in one piece. Seriously, a place to get lost in.

OK, rant over-ish.